What a journey it was! When we recently set off for Inverness, we had an ambitious itinerary ahead of us: five days, eight boarding schools and more than 500 kilometres across Scotland. Our mission was simple: to find out what Scottish boarding schools are really like. We write about schools in England every month – and have done so for years. Scotland, however, remains largely unexplored territory for many German families, and for us it was high time to take a closer look at the north of Britain once again.
Of course, we encountered all the images Scotland is famous for: rolling hills, spectacular tree-lined avenues, ancient stone buildings, sheep-filled fields, lochs and weather that, rather surprisingly, felt more like summer than Scotland. But the more schools we visited, the less the scenery mattered. A much more interesting question emerged: what makes each school unique, and why would we recommend a boarding school here in the north to one of our families?
Every time we climbed back into the car after a school visit and the first few minutes passed in silence, the same question inevitably came up:
“So… which child would be happy here?”
That was when the real discussions began – about the people we had met, the atmosphere we had experienced, the values we had observed, and the kind of young person who would truly thrive at each school.
That is precisely why trips like these are so valuable. Prospectuses and websites can tell you a great deal. But the feeling you take away when you leave a campus is something no brochure can ever capture.
Eight Boarding Schools, Eight Distinct Personalities
Perhaps the biggest surprise of our journey was this: although all eight schools are in Scotland, no two felt remotely alike.
Gordonstoun impressed us with its uncompromising commitment to Outdoor Education and students who are constantly encouraged to step beyond their comfort zones. Glenalmond embodied the more traditional British boarding school, complete with a morning chapel service and a Head who greeted every pupil personally at the entrance each day, all set against one of the most spectacular landscapes we encountered. Strathallan felt like a huge bouquet of opportunities, offering everything from outstanding sports facilities to theatre, music and an impressive art department. Yet Admissions Director Lisa summed it up perfectly with a smile: “Don’t forget: first and foremost, we’re still a school.”
Then there was St Leonards in the university town of St Andrews, known for its demanding International Baccalaureate programme and exceptional golf opportunities right beside the famous Old Course, the oldest golf course in the world. Dollar Academy clearly reflected the energy and vision of its dynamic Rector, Ian Munro, who is preparing pupils for a world that is constantly changing. Fettes College combined all the advantages of Edinburgh with campus life on an extraordinary estate that prompted our director to remark: “Fettes is a different kind of beast!” And he wasn’t wrong. Loretto School won us over with its warm, family atmosphere and one of the country’s most respected golf academies. Last but certainly not least, Merchiston Castle, Scotland’s only all-boys boarding school, stood out for its remarkably modern approach to positive masculinity.
It became clear after only a handful of visits that there is no such thing as the typical Scottish boarding school. Each has its own distinct character, its own educational philosophy and its own values that shape everyday life.
The People
If there is one thing that has stayed with us long after this journey, it is the people.
At every school we spoke to at least five to ten members of staff and pupils: humble, thoughtful and passionate Heads; warm and genuinely caring Admissions teams; teachers who were meticulous, engaging and always happy to discuss their subject; likeable, confident and articulate students; and organised, dedicated Houseparents who clearly cared deeply about the young people in their charge.
We got to know them all – and, quite simply, there wasn’t a bad egg among them.
Food – From Haggis to Shortbread
Scottish food has its fair share of stereotypes. After a week on the road, our verdict would be this: most of the time we were pleasantly surprised, with the occasional disappointment. What arrived on our plates ranged from fairly average to genuinely outstanding – from a rather tough stuffed chicken breast in a country pub (one we certainly won’t be recommending!) to an unforgettable fine dining experience in Edinburgh (which we would be happy to recommend if you ask us).
The food at the boarding schools, however, exceeded our expectations. Everywhere we went, meals were freshly prepared, varied and offered plenty of choice. Thankfully, we managed to avoid some of the more adventurous creations – such as the Bratwurst salad we spotted on one menu. Instead, students enjoyed everything from Mexican to Vietnamese dishes and, at least at St Leonards, an apple a day during break time.
At Dollar Academy, our student guide Hel told us with a grin how he tries every year to persuade international students to try Haggis on Toast. Not everyone is convinced by Scotland’s famous savoury speciality made from sheep’s offal.
“But it’s really good!” he insisted.
We had every intention of trying it ourselves… but, unfortunately, time got the better of us.
There was one Scottish speciality, however, that everyone agreed on: shortbread. Hardly a Head’s office or meeting room passed without us being offered a plate of freshly baked buttery biscuits together with the inevitable question, “Fancy a cuppa?” After visiting eight schools, we now consider ourselves something of a shortbread expert—and, in our opinion, Dollar narrowly beats Glenalmond.
Golf – More Than Just a Sport
Golf is as much a part of Scotland as shortbread and sheep. Loretto School is home to one of Europe’s most respected golf academies and probably the most passionate golf coach you could hope to meet. St Leonards is just a short walk from the Old Course in St Andrews, while Dollar Academy has worked closely with the famous Gleneagles golf resort for many years and even has its own small course nestled in the surrounding hills. The other schools, too, have their own courses, dedicated golf coaches or train regularly at facilities that golfers from around the world would love to play.
Even students who have never picked up a golf club before should consider giving the sport a try during a boarding school stay in Scotland. Besides the opportunity to work towards highly sought-after scholarships to American universities, there is another good reason to play golf. As Simon Brian, Head of School at St Leonards, put it:
“Golfers are usually good students because they work hard, stay focused and are ambitious.”
After spending time at these schools, we can certainly see what he means.
Bagpipes
You come across the bagpipes in Scotland far more often than you might expect. And, to be honest, the European ear needs a little time to adjust when you first walk past a music room and hear them being played. But then we spotted a young girl standing on the lawn at Fettes College, quite naturally practising the bagpipes, and suddenly it all seemed perfectly normal.
And that was only the beginning. At Gordonstoun, around 150 pupils rehearse with the Pipe Band every week, including boarders from countries as far afield as Brazil and Switzerland. Glenalmond’s Pipe Band looks back on a tradition spanning more than 150 years, while Dollar Academy proudly describes itself as one of the world’s most successful schools for pipe bands and drumming.
One thing quickly became clear: at Scotland’s boarding schools, the bagpipes are far more than a tourist cliché. They are a living part of school life and Scottish tradition.
And What About the Scottish Accent?
Before we set off, one question briefly crossed our minds:
“How are we going to cope with the Scottish accent?”
Five days later, the answer was simple: without any difficulty at all.
Most of the schools employ teachers from across the United Kingdom, so we were actually surprised by how rarely we encountered particularly strong Scottish accents. The only real exception was Yvonne, the House Matron at Glenalmond. At first, her pronunciation required a little extra concentration. But after a few minutes, it simply didn’t matter anymore.
Yvonne was one of the warmest people we met during the entire trip. Her openness, the enthusiasm with which she spoke about the pupils in her care, and her willingness to help meant that, before long, we hardly noticed her accent at all.
Our Final Thoughts
By the time we set off for the airport at the end of the week, we were taking home far more than brochures and pages of notes. Scotland had genuinely surprised us. Some of the schools that hadn’t been particularly high on our radar before will now feature much more often in our recommendations – provided, of course, that they are the right fit for the child.
Our journey showed us just how diverse the boarding school landscape north of the border really is. Over the coming months, we’ll introduce each of these schools in more detail, exploring what makes them unique, where their particular strengths lie and, just as importantly, the kinds of young people who are most likely to thrive there.
In the meantime, if you would like to know more about any of the schools we visited, simply get in touch. We’d be delighted to share our first-hand impressions and help you find the school that best matches your child’s personality and interests.
And if this journey has inspired you to discover a little more of Scotland, why not bake a batch of shortbread, put the kettle on and settle down with our first school profile on Gordonstoun?
Read our Gordonstoun profile
Try our traditional Scottish shortbread recipe
